New Valves

The valves being so far recessed into the cylinder and sitting on Zero margin has worried me since I put the top end together. Through the years, each time a valve job was done the seats were cut deeper and deeper into the cylinder. Liberal use of a 70 degree cutter and a lot of valve grinding left me with intakes that were about to fall thru the seat...........

Man has it been cold in Georgia this winter. We are not use to this treatment from mother nature, so one cold Saturday morning I decided to tear into the motor again. I am starting to worry that I may wear the threads off the head bolts, but am definitely learning the best sequence of operations to disassemble this motor.

Recessed valves with 0 margin

 

 

Searching the SI valve catalog, I found a big block Chevy valve with a 1 7/8" head and 11/32" stem. Measuring my valve pit, that should raise the valve seat back up and provide a good margin on top of the valve. I decided to try this and see how they turned out before trying to fit new valve seats in the cylinders. So I ordered some valve blanks to play with.

 

Upon arrival the first order of business was to grind the valve to the Indian spec of 35 degrees, if for no other reason, just to be different. With the help of a protractor, the valve grinder was set.

 



Grinding to 35 Degrees

 

After reaming the guides and some trial and error, I got happy with the seat and position in the cylinder.

 

 

 

With the valve raised back up, I marked the correct length and groove location, and moved to the lathe. It was slow going turning this stainless!

 

 

The Finished Product

 

And all loaded up

 

Compared to the first picture, I think this exercise was a success. There is a lot of meat on the new valves, and no seats to bang loose. I think it'll make it!







The Electrics

The electrical requirements on a 1929 vehicle were very different than modern vehicles. No power was required for heated seats, mirrors, power windows, radios, heated gear, gps units, Bluetooth signals, or any of the other essentials we have become dependent on in the 21 century. Life was a little simpler 85 years ago.

This Indian did come with modern electric lights. Earlier versions had used gas, but by 29 Splitdorf was producing a 6 volt DC generator, the DU-7, that was capable of just enough current to burn a headlight and single filament taillight.  The DU-7 on my bike had been replaced along the way with a later Autolite unit off a Chief, which has a higher output, but can also put a lot of strain on the drive gear. With all of 15 HP at my disposal, extra drag is to be avoided!

Looking for alternatives, you have to consider a 12 volt system. Bulbs are easier to find, especially along the road, and current draws are reduced. Also, the pickings on 6 volt generators or alternators is slim. So I finally decided to use a small permanent magnet 12v alternator from a Kubota tractor. It is significantly smaller than the generator, and will produce enough current for my lights.

 

New 12v Alternator vs Autolite 6v Generator

 

 

I built the mounting brackets to fit the original bolt locations, and use the stock belt length. The solid state voltage regulator kind of looks out of place on an antique, but it will get the job done!

 

 



 

and

 

I had to modify the guard a little, and cuss a little, and adjust a little, but everything turned out pretty slick.

Wiring the bike came next. I had a piece of a reproduction wiring harness for a starter kit, and added additional wires for the brake light and new alternator. I mounted a traditional brake light switch,

 and routed the wires to the taillight thru some copper tubing, just like the originals.

With the help of a dremel, I was able to get the single element socket out of the original taillight housing. A trip to AutoZone yielded a 12v dual element LED bulb and matching socket, and with a little solder the taillight was ready to go. A 12 volt bulb was substituted in the headlight, and all systems are go.

STOP